Come rains and the month of Savan, Vrindavan is aglow in verdant greens inside temples dating 25 to 550 years! The artist’s palette will have fewer shades of green than Sri Radha-Krishna’s wardrobe flaunts. Be it Iskcon or Sri Radha Raman temple, Gopinathji or Radha-Vallabhji, Rangnathji or the dearest of them Sri Banke Bihari, greens the colour of gourd to pista green, to new leaves, to rice fields, to mango leaves, to mehandi hue, to parrot green, to lime and fluorescent green, to emerald and aquamarine…embellish the naughty persona of God who came to love and be loved as Sri Radha-Krishna.Visitors from Delhi zip up to Vrindavan in 2 hours on the well-maintained Delhi-Agra highway, and Sunday is the day when Delhites are here in large numbers. For other visitors from neighbouring and far-off cities and villages, even countries, each day is equally important ‘coz they’ve travelled far to meet the Lord of their hearts. The special train from Lucknow to Mathura has increased visitors to Mathura-Vrindavan from the city of Nawabs too. And yes we Lucknowites have a place in Vrindavan to call our very own! Shahji’s temple near Sri Radha Raman temple is a signature of Nawabi opulence, Italian and Rajasthani architectural flicks; experimentation that is a hallmark of Lucknowi monuments. Kundan Lal Shah ji from Chowk in Lucknow built this palace over 2 centuries back for Radha-Krishna, Chote Radha-Ramanji as they are fondly called. This palace with a huge gateway in red sandstone is reminiscent of the entrance to the Asafi and Hussainabad Imambaras. The arched gateway houses bright shops of knick knacks from haute-coutre for the Lord to music vcds and cassettes, tulsi jewellery and key-rings.
In the front courtyard an electronic display of tableaus brings to life episodes from Radha Krishna’s lives. Lilies blossom in gay abandon. This courtyard is a resting place for many travellers in the afternoon when the temple is closed as the Lord rests. Red sandstone steps take one up to the architectural beauty akin to the Taj Mahal in certain ways. Inlay portraits in Italian marble, enhanced with gems have stood the test of time and fine craftsmanship. The 12 twisted-pillars in the verandah from which the temple also gets its name ‘Tehre khambe wala mandir’, are made out of single pieces of marble. This pillared verandah has a Ras mandli nowadays performing the famous dance-drama everyday.
Chote Radha Raman greets devotees in his drawing room with a water fountain in front of him and Itr dipped cotton-buds on sticks to scent the air. Their bedroom is behind them and the famed Basanti room with Belgian glass chandeliers, glasses, mirrors and other royal finery that befits the ruler of all opulence, is on the other side. This Basanti room is specially used on Basant-Panchmi in Jan-Feb to celebrate His wedding anniversary. An impeccable garden with parrots and other birds, monkeys and squirrels exploring the shady greens, opens for the Lord’s frolic 2 days before Raksha-bandhan, Savan Purnima. Yellow sandstone garden walls with intricate jalis and windows overlook river Yamuna that saunters by Keshi ghat with its tortoise population sticking out their heads of the water like lotus buds.
The floral decoration or Phool Banglas at Mathura’s Janma-bhoomi temple or Dwarikadheesh temple or Banke Bihari ji or Iskcon or Radha Ramanji temples in Vrindavan are out of this world and must be witnessed to add to sensory and spiritual joy. Sri Radha Krishna in their finery seated in flower-laden silver swings are a treat for the senses and heart.
Savan brings with it untold moments of grandeur in Vraj bhoomi. A weekend trip would store memories for a lifetime…. And how about planting a tree as an offering to the Lord who dances here!
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